Reflections on Kyrgyzstan

There have been many facets of this country that make it unique to others and have particularly struck us. Here is an attempt at capturing some of them:

People: The Kyrgyz people are truly kind and eager to help. Unlike some other visited less developed countries, they are not opportunistic when interacting with tourists, but rather are engaging and fair. 

It was incredible throughout our trip how willing people were to help and the lengths of communication that could be obtained with gestures and patience. 

It is evident that the woman runs the home and is painfully busy completing tasks to keep the house moving forward. The man seems absent at times and appears to spend a great deal of his time socializing and resting, although hard work for farmers remains evident. This appeared true in most homes, however there was much more equality noted in cities and also in our home stay in At Bashi. 

Given the soviet influence, all are fluent in Russian and Kyrgyz; however, English is emerging particularly with the younger people. 

We had heard that alcoholism was a problem and it can be noticed, especially in the early hours of the day, in most cities. However, in all of our yurt and home stays consumption was null or minimal. 

Food: It is outlined in the Lonely Planet that one does not go to Kyrgyzstan for the food - this is quite correct. Although we have discovered some dishes we like, they are limited. Lagman, a Russian noodle dish is quite tasty and good served as a soup or  fried. Mantas or dumplings are quite gamey but okay. Almost all dishes include mutton and are usually eaten with nan or fresh bread. 

The national drink, kymys, fermented horse milk, is best in the yurtstays but the  sour and vinegary aftertaste is hard to get used to. It tends to be almost chugged at the end of each meal and is believed to help with digestion and good health. 

Tea is served all the time, the woman always fills your bowl/cup multiple times and locals heap tablespoons of sugar in each serving. Tea time appears to be all the time and is presented with breads and amazing homemade jams, usually apricot, strawberry or cherry. Tables are set with multiple bowls of nuts and dried or fresh food. 

Usually, the woman eats after the man and the guests, siting ready to top up tea throughout the meal. 

Landscape: Incredible, beautiful and amazing. There is really not much more that can be said except you just have to see it! Mountains, vast pastures, green rolling hills, beautiful alpine lakes; all of which are basically untouched and pristine. 

Observations: Whenever we visit somewhere new there are a few things that strike us. Here are some:

- locals believe fast flowing air in cars can lead to illness and therefore despite crowding and intense heat, windows are often shut leading us to wonder why and engage in battles with the window controls

- gold teeth, apparently a status symbol, quite the look

- the typical Kyrgyz hat, just so great 

- no need to drive in your lane. You can drive in yours, the other, or any combination 

- kymys, kymys, kymys, and more kymys

- tea, tea and more tea

- meat, meat, meat and more meat

- the juxtaposition between Bishkek and the rural villages and nomadic life

- the kindness of the locals

- a slower and more relaxed pace of life 

- yurts, so cozy and proof that entire families can live in one room

- a strong sense of family with multiple generations living under the same roof

- the responsibility of the youngest son to  stay at home and care for his parents 

- a Muslim influence that is present but not integral 

- an eerie sense that something else previously existed and now is undergoing change and rebirth as the nation comes out of Soviet rule and develops a sense of self 

- towns with mostly concrete soviet influenced and uninspired architecture that is in various states of decay 

- a strong sense of national pride and will to become a great independent country 

- incredible markets with great fruit 

- a "tourist" salad that I could eat everyday consisting of cabbage, dill, cucumbers and tomatoes

- an insane use of cooking oil literally covering most dishes 

- a unique experience being like a"fly on the wall" and openly discuss in front of others while not being understood and having others function at times like you are not there 

- a very strong sense of hospitality and acceptance of others into home and lives 

- family dynamics are often a little skewed as woman have many children particularly in the villages making it seem like children could be grandchildren and are raised partly by their older siblings