One horse, one guide and one petroglyphs

We spent another day in Kochkor after our return from Song-Kol, we had read about another jailoo valley called Sarala-Saz and that there were petroglyphs about a three hour hike up the valley. We hired a driver and arranged for a local to meet us to take us up. What we got was a great day but not quite what we signed up for.

When we arrived at the yurt camp to meet our "guide" he indicated that he wanted to take a horse while we walked, far enough not everyone likes hiking, so we set out, up, up for about an hour when we arrived at a single petroglyphs. The guide pointed it out and then said okay and proceeded to take a nap for just around one hour. 

Although it was not quite what we expected, we had packed a picnic and enjoyed the beautiful views whilst he napped. 

We then hiked down and after some obligatory kymys and tea we were off again back to Kochkor for our last night. 

Trek to Song-Kol

Day 1: We were met by our guide, Bek, in Kochkor before driving about an hour and a half out of town to start our four day trek around the Song-Kol region.

It was a tough first day mostly going either up or down but it seemed like mostly up! We arrived at our yurta camp early in the afternoon and were greeted with tea and bread as a storm rolled in over the pass. We were served kymys, fermented horse milk, to end our welcome, once again we got it down but it was well, interesting, slightly vinegary and also quite sour. 

A few hours later another group arrived, 3 guys our age from Germany. We hiked up a few peaks near the camp and saw our hosts milk the horses during the afternoon. 

We are now awaiting dinner to be served huddled from a second storm in our yurt. 

Day 2: Currently we are on the shores of Song-Kol teaching the 10 year old daughter of our hosts how to skip rocks. The day took us up over the 3500m pass  and the down into the valley where the lake sits. Our yurt camp is actually 5 yurts set up in a semi-circle, it has a small community feel and it appears that three generations of the same family are gathered here. The weather is perfect and we look forward to dinner including fresh fish from the lake. 

Day 3: Probably my favourite day of the trek as we hiked along the lake all day. Up and down the hills filled with little yellow flowers and in and out of little inlets on the lake shore. We ate our picnic lunch on a peninsula overlooking the whole lake with a mountain backdrop. The lake shore itself looked like the ocean with multiple blue hues from indigo to deep blue. We continue to hike fast as we arrived ahead of schedule to our yurt camp. The family was busy working on the daily tasks needed to be almost self- sustainable. From milking the horses to collecting dung to burn to hand making noodles for soup the women are always moving but it remains a slow and simple lifestyle. This has perhaps been one of the most interesting parts of this trek, becoming familiar with a "typical" day for nomadic families. To us it seems so strange to not really progress but rather work to sustain and exist. The only goal of being out here is to fatten up the heard during the summer months in the lush pastures around the lake. It is a good lesson about taking the time to be still and appreciate the moment as opposed to rushing around, however, the pace does seem counter to our regular life. 

Day 4: Today we hike out over a small pass to Kyzart village to catch a ride back to Kochkor to re-group and shower! 

This trek will definitely be a great memory of this trip. One of the main reasons we came to Kyrgyzstan was to witness nomadic life and the trek offered that as well as incredible scenery and the trekking we love.

Horseback eagle hunting

Today ranks up with some of the most unique and incredible travel experiences we have had to date. Eagle hunting is among the nomadic traditions that are still practiced in rural Kyrgyzstan, and was among the things we really wanted to do here. We organized it from Bokonbayevo with an eagle hunter named Ishenbek from the neighbouring village. We set out early outside of town and arrived at a small family farm where we were greeted with a bowl of maksym or jarma, fermented barley made with yeast and yogurt, after getting it down we were set to go into the hills on horseback with our guide.

In the end, we saw two attempts for a kill without success but an incredible sight none the less. Although the eagle was the main focus, being on horseback out in the landscape we had been seeing from a far was a highlight. 

After a full day we were greeted with more maksym and dinner with the family at the farm before arriving late back in town. 

An egg with your vodka?

We spent the past few days in a mountain settlement outside of Karakol, we were able to get a ride up the 4WD track in a Russian like army van which was an experience in itself. There are only a few buildings at the top but the scenery is amazing and so untouched. Our hut also hosted some Kyrgyz friends getting away from the city, along with another couple from Switzerland. We quickly learned that homemade vodka was toasted with a boiled egg and that you cannot sit in front of an empty glass long before someone quickly refills it. We will spend the night back in karakol and then make our way around the southern side of lake Issuk-kol.

First days

When we arrived in Bishkek, we were greeted by a nice older lady who took us to our guest house in the centre of town. From there, we set out exploring. We quickly realized that the town was very laid back without much going on, even though it is the capital city.

After another day in the city we caught a bus to karakol. The by passed along Issuk-kol through the surrounding mountains, it was stunning. 

Karakol itself leaves not much to be desired and could be explored in about 30 minutes. We settled in for the night and planned to leave early for our first day of hiking. 

We waited for the minibus that never came before hiring a taxi to Jehti-Ogurz where we spent the day in the incredible 

valleys where summer jailoos or yurt camps were being set up. It was do serene and beautiful. 

We hitched a ride, yes now we can say we have only hitchhiked in Tanzania and Kyrgyzstan, back to town, and leave tomorrow for Altanarshan.

Just the beginning

Today was our first day in the mountains and open area, we confirmed why we came here. 

On the Road Again

Our packs are sitting at the door ready to see what Kyrgyzstan has to offer. What a month it will be!